Advantage Realty Group Blog: Have you Winterized Your Home Yet? Cost Effective ...

Advantage Realty Group Blog: Have you Winterized Your Home Yet? Cost Effective ...: Its that time of year again, yes Winter is around the corner or some would say is already here! Well be sure if you have not yet taken a ...

Have you Winterized Your Home Yet? Cost Effective Tips

Its that time of year again, yes Winter is around the corner or some would say is already here!  Well be sure if you have not yet taken a few steps to best winterize your home you do so now.

There are two kinds of home winterizing tips. The first variety often involves spending a load of money to upgrade your energy efficiency. While definitely worthwhile and timely with many federal energy tax credits expiring this year, these fixes can still be very costly (think adding insulation, getting a new energy efficient furnace, energy efficient windows, etc.).

The other variety of home winterizing tips focus on the things that you can do on a weekend afternoon for very little money (or free) with a little bit of elbow grease. The cost savings of doing such work generally comes in the form of preventing costly fix-it repairs that come from neglect. Here are seven things that you should do around the house every year before the first sign of snow hits.

1. Clean Out Your Gutters

Gutters that are dammed up with leaves can result in ice dams, which can lead to all kinds of costly outdoor repairs — damaged shingles, roof leaks, broken gutters, etc. Additionally, if your gutters are clogged up, water could be falling right next to your foundation and leads to possible flooding in the basement.

Estimated Cost: Free, as you don't fall off the roof and end up with a medical bill.

2. Drain Your External Faucets

Water that is sitting in pipes that lead to outside faucets can freeze and burst, ultimately flooding your basement and leading to possible water damage and mold problems. Simply close off the interior faucet valves by turning them clockwise all the way to the right. Then go outside and make sure that every last drop has come out of the faucet.

Estimated Cost: Free

3. Caulk

Search for drafts around windows and doors on a cold windy day. Place a tissue paper over the suspected draft area. If the paper flutters, you've probably located the draft. For drafts under doors, you may have to buy a rubber draft stopper to place at the bottom of the door.

Estimated Cost: $3/tube (One tube should be more than enough)

4. Repair Your Shingles

If you have cracked, missing, or otherwise damaged shingles, have them replaced immediately so that you don't get roof leaks. Strong winds, falling tree limbs, and sun weathering can all lead to damaged shingles. You might as well check them out while you're up on your roof cleaning out your gutters.

Estimated Cost: $1/shingle

5. Flush Your Hot Water Heater

You can flush a hot water heater any time of year, but you might as well throw it in with the other maintenance work you'll be doing since you really only need to do it about once a year. If you don't, sediment can build up at the bottom of your water heater and cause it to lose efficiency or even leak.

Simply take one of your water hoses and fasten it to the water faucet at the bottom of your water heater. Turn off the water heater so that you don't get burned by hot water accidentally. Run the hose outdoors, preferably, but if you can't do that, then a laundry tub should be sufficient. Open the valve and let the water drain out completely, rinsing out the sediment with it.

Estimated Cost: $0.001 for the water

6. Replace Your Furnace Filter

Furnace filters, in a clean basement, can lead to a more efficient furnace when replaced about every six months. I usually replace mine when I first turn on the heat and then when I switch over to air conditioning in the summer.

Estimated Cost: $5-$15, depending on the furnace

7. Programmable Thermostat

Most programmable thermostats can be purchased for $30-$70. In a cold climate, you might be able to save that much in a month alone if you set one up to be cooler while you are out of the house and at night, and warmer when you are at home. And they are easier to install than you may think (half-hour job, max.).
Estimated Cost: $30-70

Hope you found this blog useful today as you prepare for the cold that is ahead of us!  Thanks for reading my blog and please feel free to share with any others that you know could benefit or would also enjoy being a follower!

Advantage Realty Group Blog: Can't Refinance? Can't Get a Loan? Here's why 2 Mi...

Advantage Realty Group Blog: Can't Refinance? Can't Get a Loan? Here's why 2 Mi...: Today is some useful information for those of you that are considering applying for a loan, have recently applied for a loan or would just...

Can't Refinance? Can't Get a Loan? Here's why 2 Million had the same problem in the past year...

Today is some useful information for those of you that are considering applying for a loan, have recently applied for a loan or would just like to know how the process works.

Half of refinance applications are abandoned or rejected, as are 30 percent of purchase mortgage applications, according to the Mortgage Bankers Association. All told, the Federal Financial Institutions Examination Council (FFIEC) says that well over 2 million mortgage applications were rejected last year.


Want to avoid falling into that number? It's tough -- especially in light of the fact that mortgage lenders have become increasingly restrictive in terms of their lending guidelines since the housing market crash.

Here, as a cautionary tale and primer on what to expect, are the top six reasons mortgage lenders reject applications.

1. Income issues. Most failed applications falling into this category have income too low for the mortgage amount they are seeking; often, a spouse's credit issues can create this problem, too, as the income the spouse plans to actually chip in toward the mortgage cannot be considered by a lender.

But increasingly, the recent vagaries of the job market are also causing this issue, as people who have changed their line of work or have changed from salaried employee to freelancer over the last couple of years can also have their home loan applications rejected based on income.

2. Muddled money matters. If the mortgage for which you're applying plus your monthly payments on credit card, car and student loan debts will comprise more than 45 percent of your total income, you could have problems qualifying for a home loan. You might also run into problems if you rely too heavily on bonuses, overtime, cash wages or rental income -- all of these can be difficult or impossible to get a mortgage bank to consider, and if they do, they might not take all of it into account.

3. Credit issues. Today, the mortgage-qualifying FICO score cutoff falls somewhere between 620 and 660, depending on which lender and which loan type you seek. More than one-third of Americans, by some numbers, have credit scores too low to qualify for a home loan. Even if your credit score is high enough to qualify, if you have any late mortgage payments, a short sale, a foreclosure or a bankruptcy in the last two years, loan qualifying could be difficult to impossible.

4. Property didn't appraise. Since the whole industry had its hand (among other things) smacked for allowing home values to skyrocket in a very short time, appraisal guidelines have tightened up -- some would say, even more than overall mortgage guidelines. So, it is increasingly common to have the property appraise for a price lower than the sale price negotiated between the buyer and seller.

This is especially common in the refinance realm, as well over a quarter of U.S. homes are now upside-down, meaning the mortgage balance owed is greater than the value of the home. (If you're trying to refinance an upside-down mortgage, consider the FHA Short Refi program -- contact your lender or get referrals to any mortgage broker who makes FHA details to apply.)

5. Condition problems. With all the distressed properties on the market, and with most nondistressed sellers barely breaking even, more home-sale transactions than ever are falling apart due to condition problems with the property. Many lenders will not extend financing on homes where the appraiser points out problems like cracked or broken windows, missing kitchen appliances, electrical problems, or wood rot.

And in the world of condos and other units that belong to a homeowners association, if more than 25 percent of units are rented (rather than owner-occupied) or more than 15 percent are delinquent on their HOA dues, new applications for refinance or purchase mortgages on units in the development are likely to be rejected.

6. Technical difficulties with application. The days when lenders just took your word for it are long, long gone. Applications with incomplete or unverifiable information are doomed.

If any of these mortgage loan application glitches arise in your homebuying or refinancing process, it's critical that you connect with your mortgage professional, be it your banker or mortgage broker, to determine what course of action to take.

In some cases, it might be as simple as buying a stove you find at Craigslist and installing it before escrow closes; but with income issues your mortgage pro will need to help you determine whether it makes sense to pay some bills down, get a co-signer, or even wait six months so your income documentation will qualify.

Protect yourself or your Buyer in "AS-IS" purchases!

Q: What can a buyer do if the seller includes an as-is clause in the contract and "issues" are discovered from the inspection? Will the buyer lose his deposit if he walks away from the deal after the inspection uncovers, let's say, termites or electrical problems? It would seem to me that a buyer would insist that the as-is clause be removed. --V. Wohner

A: In most states, the phrase "as is" has been defined, over time (and lots of lawsuits) as also indicating that the buyer is taking the property in "as-disclosed" condition. These same states tend to have disclosure standards that require sellers to tell buyers, even as-is buyers, about any "material" issues with the property: things that the seller knows about that would have some influence on the decision-making process of a reasonable buyer.

In other states, though "as is" does not connote any disclosure requirement on the part of the seller. I recall reading an Arkansas case where the seller had known the property's lot flooded every year for many years, didn't disclose it to the as-is buyer, and the court sided with the seller. In these areas, "as is" might well be interpreted as "caveat emptor" (Latin for "buyer beware").

However, in the vast majority of cases, buyers can -- and should -- insert an inspection contingency into an as-is contract. In fact, the inspection is the vehicle for knowing what exactly is going on with the condition of the property. The inspection, follow-up, or specialty inspections and repair bids or estimates are really the only way for a smart buyer to know whether they should move forward with an as-is deal.

Under an as-is contract with an inspection contingency or an inspection period, the buyer will have a certain period of time to obtain his inspections and decide whether he wants to move forward with the transaction, back out of the transaction and recoup his deposit, or back out of the transaction.

If after inspections, the buyer decides to exercise the inspection contingency and back out of the transaction within the time frame provided in the contract, their deposit money is safe and must be returned by the seller.

If, on the other hand, the buyer receives troubling information during the inspection but would still like to move forward with the transaction as is, he can do that.

Some buyers do this, especially when they feel like they are getting a great deal, even with the repair costs, when they can afford the repairs or anticipated them in advance, and/or when the seller is already making nothing on the property, so a price reduction would turn the transaction into a short sale (which might or might not be allowed by the seller's bank).

Other buyers who learn of termite or other work that needs to be done choose several tactics. Some request that the seller complete some or all of the repairs, and insist that if the seller refuses, they (the buyers) will cancel the transaction and request their deposit back. Other buyers request a price reduction, on the same condition of canceling the transaction if the seller cannot or will not do so.

I see it as highly unethical to make a "fake" as-is offer, knowing full well that you plan to come back and ask for repairs or a price cut later in the transaction.

But if you get inspections and are surprised at how much work is needed, or at what it will cost, there is no legal or ethical bar from either backing out of the transaction entirely or making an effort to renegotiate the terms of the contract, so long as you do so within the contingency or objection period time frame provided in the contract.

In most states that allow for contingencies and objections, the buyer is legally able to back out of the contract after the contingency or objection period expires, but will forfeit his deposit or other liquidated damages provided in the contract if he does so.

Consult with your local broker or agent, or a local real estate attorney, to determine what avenues are available in your state and under your contract.

Dead Grass? Tips on How to Properly Water a Lawn

If you live in the Midwest then like me, you've probably recently attempted to off-set the staggering 90-100 Degree Heat Wave we've had to keep your grass alive by watering it.  I thought it was appropriate to find some useful tips to share so that you can maintain a green lawn, or close to it despite mother nature as of recent :)

How to Water Your Lawn Efficiently

The Environmental Protection Agency reports that nationally, lawn care and landscaping accounts for more than 30 percent of water use in the United States.

That is an amazing amount, especially if you consider how much time and energy it takes to treat water to make it suitable for drinking, only to use it on the grass. The worst part of it is that much of this water goes to waste due to inefficient watering techniques.

Knowing how to water you lawn efficiently can make for greener, healthier grass, and big water savings during the year. This article will cover some basic techniques to get the most out of your water when you irrigate your lawn.

When to water your lawn

Water your lawn only when it needs it. The first three to four inches of soil below the turfgrass should be dry before you water. Use an electronic soil tester to test the soil moisture, or use a trowel or a screwdriver to open the soil and feel it with your finger. Another way to test when you lawn needs water is to step on the grass. If you can easily flatten the grass with your foot, you should water it. If the grass regains its form quickly after you step on it, wait to water.

It’s always a good idea to water in the cool of the early morning or the evening to reduce the levels of evaporation. Watering in the morning is best as the water may sit overnight and cause problems with root rot or fungal diseases. Never water on a windy day.

How and how much to water your lawn

Water less frequently and more deeply. If you water deeply, your roots will begin to grow down further into the soil. This means that your grass will perform better during hot and drought-like periods.

One inch of water is a good rule of thumb for your lawn. However, this will really depend on where you live, the quality of your soil, etc. Soil types can make a big difference on how efficiently your lawn uses water. See this site from the Better Lawn and Turf Institute for a guide to how soil types affect watering rates.

Adding organic compost to your garden soil is one of the best ways to improve the efficiency of your lawn’s water use. You should water a little more during the hottest times of the year, and less during the fall. If your area is getting an inch of rain a week, there is no reason to water more. You should save you water until you need it.

Measuring how much you’re watering:

Go out and test to see how much water you’re using each time you water. Remember that your goal should be an inch of water about every week. Place a series of shallow containers throughout your lawn. Turn the sprinklers on and water your grass. When you’re finished, measure the water in the dishes. Adjust the time until the water is about an inch deep.

When you do this test, also observe your grass. If you see pools occurring quickly, this means that your soil may need some adjustment. Adding compost will do the trick.

In the meantime, you can turn off the water once the pools start to form and let the water soak in before you continue to water. If you have a sloping lawn, you’ll want to probably reduce the rate of your sprinkler system so that the water has more time to soak in.

If you have an automatic sprinkler system, this test will also help give you a time setting for your sprinkler system. This technique will also help you determine if your sprinkler system is working well. If you note large discrepancies in the level of water in the containers, you may need to adjust you sprinkler system.

Adjusting your sprinkler system:

Check your sprinkler system to make sure that it’s watering your grass and not your sidewalk, driveway, etc. Check all the sprinkler heads. Some may be clogged or pointing in the wrong direction. Replace and adjust any sprinkler heads that aren’t working properly. You can talk to a professional lawn and garden service if you need help with this. Also check for leaks, broken pipes, etc. If you have a timer for your sprinkler system, set it based on the 1 inch watering system.

How to water new lawns:

For newly laid sod, give the entire area a good, long drink right after you set up your lawn. You should continue with frequent soakings (every 2 days) for about 2 and a half weeks so that the roots establish. After this period, use the one inch rule for watering your sod.

When you seed a new lawn, it’s important to water it properly. You’ll initially want to water more frequently, but without saturating your lawn. You should keep the first few inches of soil moist during the establishment period. It will probably take a little over a month for the roots to begin to establish. At which point you can use the 1 inch of water rule.

Aerating your grass for efficient water use:

Soil aeration is another way to get your grass to use water more efficiently. Aerating your grass involves punching holes in your lawn with specialized aerating equipment.

Through time and continued use, the soil beneath your lawn becomes compacted and this affects water drainage, air circulation, and how efficiently your grass makes use of nutrients. The overuse of chemical fertilizers also can create soil compaction. Thus, aerating your soil is one of the best ways to get your lawn to make the best use of water and nutrients.

You should aerate your lawn to about 3-4 inches deep. A lawn coring aerating tool is a great tool for small lawns. For larger lawns, you may want to go ahead and rent a larger lawn aerating machine. When you aerate your lawn, try passing 2-3 times over the same area so that you properly cover your lawn with enough holes. If you use a machine aerator, make sure you leave the soil plugs on the grass. They should decompose quickly and will return nutrients to the soil.

Other water saving tips for your lawn:

To further increase your water savings, you should mow your grass correctly and use “grasscycling,” which means leaving the grass clippings on your lawn. The grass clippings act as natural mulch, retaining moisture and returning nutrients to the soil. This will improve soil texture and water retention. Reel mowers are a great way to grasscycle. Also, make sure to read this guide to grass cutting heights for more information.

Removing weeds can also help your grass use water more efficiently, as weeds compete with your grass for water. Invest in a good quality weeder to effectively remove weeds from your lawn.

Also, look for drought resistant and water-wise grasses. This website from Texas Aggie Horticulture is a good place to look for grasses that will use less water than standard turf grasses.

To further your water savings, you can use water absorbing polymers (water crystals) in your lawn to help you save water. These water absorbing gel products, such as Solid Water polymer gels, can help reduce the amount you water your landscaping by up to 50 percent.

Water absorbing polymer gels work by absorbing high quantities of water, in addition to beneficial nutrients, and then slowly releasing the water through osmosis. When mixed into the soil, the gel polymers come in direct contact with the roots of your grass. This translates to extremely efficient use of water in your landscaping. Gel polymers are safe for your family and pets and will not cause problems with root rot or soil borne diseases.

Foreclosure Activity falls to 42 Month Low in May!

Is the market finally on its way towards brighter days?  Can we really expect that with foreclosure numbers dwindling that our home inventory levels would finally subside and come down to normal levels within the next year? 

Anything is possible right? haha....Well I being the optimistic person that I am would love to see the foreclosure activity continue to fall, not just a month at a time but month after month.  This would then prove to me and to many others that we are in fact on our way to a recovery.  Yes, I said it....There is hope for a recovery folks but it starts with inventory levels as compared with the number of buyers and as long as we see the number of homes that hit the market decline from banks and short sales then we are on the right track. 

Foreclosure activity falls to 42-month low in May

Default notices drop to lowest monthly total since December 2006

By Inman News

Inman News™

Foreclosure-related filings on U.S. properties fell 33 percent year-over-year in May, hitting a 42-month low, according to a report from foreclosure data site RealtyTrac.

One in every 605 housing units, or 214,927 properties, received a foreclosure-related filing such as a default notice, scheduled auction, or bank repossession. That's a 2 percent drop from April and a 33 percent drop from a year ago.

"Foreclosure processing delays continue to mask the true face of the foreclosure situation, although there were some clues in the May numbers of what lies behind that mask," said James J. Saccacio, RealtyTrac's CEO, in a statement.

"First, activity spiked in May for various stages of the foreclosure process in some states, a pattern that has occurred in several states over the past few months. This pattern provides evidence that lenders are somewhat unevenly pushing batches of bad loans through foreclosure as they overhaul their paperwork and documentation procedures and as they determine that some local markets are able to absorb more foreclosure inventory.

"Second, while the inventory of properties in the foreclosure process has declined steadily over the past six months -- thanks in large part to 16 consecutive months of year-over-year declines in new default notices -- the inventory of unsold bank-owned REOs increased in April and May even as new REO activity slowed in both of those months. That points to continued weak demand from buyers, making it tough for lenders to unload their REO inventory. Even at a significantly lower level than a year ago, the new supply of REOs exceeds the amount being sold each month."

Default notices declined to a 53-month low in May, falling to 58,797, the lowest monthly total since December 2006. Default notices fell 7 percent month-to-month and 39 percent year-over-year.

After eight straight months of decreases, the number of foreclosure auctions scheduled rose slightly, to 89,251, up 3 percent from April but down 33 percent from a year ago.

Bank repossessions fell 4 percent month-to-month and 29 percent year-over-year in May, with lenders taking 66,879 homes into their real-estate owned (REO) inventories.

"Since the so-called robo-signing controversy came to light in October 2010, REO activity has followed a roller coaster pattern, with five monthly decreases and three monthly increases," the report said.

States with a judicial foreclosure process saw activity decrease 45 percent year-over-year in May, while states with a nonjudicial foreclosure process saw activity fall 25 percent year-over-year. Scheduled auctions rose in both judicial and nonjudicial foreclosure states on a monthly basis, 6 percent and 2 percent, respectively. REO activity rose 1 percent month-to-month in judicial foreclosure states and fell 6 percent in nonjudicial foreclosure states.

Five states accounted for 51 percent of all foreclosure activity last month. California had the highest volume of properties receiving a filing (51,906), followed by Florida (19,192), Michigan (14,614), Arizona (13,122), and Nevada (11,039).

Nevada had the highest foreclosure rate among states for the 53rd straight month in May, with one in 103 housing units receiving a foreclosure-related filing that month. Overall foreclosure activity in the state fell 23.1 percent year-over-year, with bank repossessions falling 21 percent from an all-time monthly high in April. Default notices rose 8 percent and scheduled auctions fell 1 percent on a monthly basis.

For the sixth straight month, Arizona held the second-highest foreclosure rate in the nation with one in 210 housing units receiving a filing. Overall foreclosure activity in Arizona fell 18.5 percent year-over-year. Scheduled auctions rose 4 percent month-to-month and bank repossessions fell 8 percent month-to-month but were essentially flat year-over-year.

Scheduled auctions also rose month-to-month in California, 16 percent, though default notices fell 16 percent and REOs fell 25 percent. Though overall foreclosure activity fell 27.9 percent, the Golden State had the third-highest foreclosure rate in the nation, with one in 259 units receiving a foreclosure filing.